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    • 专利摘要:
    Lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps: a step A) of preparation of a hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells of algae brown, with at least one aliphatic alcohol having one to four carbon atoms; A step B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A), with at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga, from the mixture obtained in stage C). Use of this extract in cosmetics and pharmacy.
    公开号:FR3032879A1
    申请号:FR1551545
    申请日:2015-02-24
    公开日:2016-08-26
    发明作者:Laetitia Cattuzzato；Sandy Dumont；Gelebart Erwan Le；Jerome Loeuil
    申请人:Societe dExploitation de Produits pour les Industries Chimiques SEPPIC SA；BiotechMarine SAS；
    IPC主号:
    专利说明:

    [0001] The present invention relates to a novel brown algae gametophyte extract, the process for its preparation and its use as an anti-aging agent for the skin of the human body, and the cosmetic, pharmaceutical and dermopharmaceutical compositions for topical use in including, intended to prevent aging the skin of the human body. Since human skin is the first image offered to others, improving its appearance is often a subject of concern for the human being. The skin is the reflection of a state of well-being, often associated with youth, or a state of fatigue and / or aging. Consumers of cosmetic products therefore seek solutions to mitigate and / or prevent the visible manifestations related to said aging. This cutaneous aging is observed at the level of the various cutaneous tissues and is characterized by metabolic, functional, cellular, architectural and tissue alterations, leading to visible external effects such as the appearance and increase of wrinkles, a dull complexion and / or a lack of uniformity of this complexion (dyschromia) or the modification of the texture and biomechanical properties of the skin. This skin aging results on the one hand from factors specific to each individual (characteristics of the genetic inheritance specific to each individual) and on the other hand from environmental factors. Among the environmental factors that can cause skin aging, there is repeated and prolonged exposure to natural or artificial ultraviolet radiation (or photo-aging), air pollution, cigarette smoke, various oxidative stress, psychological, emotional and / or nervous. Photo-aging causes alterations of the skin at various levels, notably solar elastosis, which is characterized by profound changes in the architecture and organization of the elastic fibers of the dermis, inducing the formation of very deep and marked wrinkles, an appearance of tanned skin, namely stiff, cracked and burnished, as well as changes in the mechanical properties of these fibers. Faced with these external aggressions, the skin has its own defense systems, and in particular systems for repairing the damage caused to DNA by said external aggressions. More particularly, they are anti-oxidant systems and non-functional protein degradation systems. Among the antioxidant systems, two types of antioxidant elements are present in the body: non-enzymatic elements, such as vitamin E and vitamin C, and enzymatic elements, such as superoxide dismutase and catalase. In particular, it has been shown that certain external elements, such as ultraviolet radiation type A and chronic heat stress, regulate the activity of catalase by decreasing it and that it is related to the appearance of wrinkles [Shin 3032879 2 et al., "Chronic heat treatment causes skin wrinkle formation and oxidative damage in hairless mice", 2012, Mech Ageing Dev, 133 (2-3): 92-8], [Corstjens et al., "Prevention of oxidative damage." (2007), Exp Gerontol, 42 (9): 924-9].
    [0002] Skin aging has also been described as being related to a lack of responsiveness of the body to hypoxia (a decrease in oxygen levels). The cellular response to hypoxia is overexpression of the HIF-1 transcription factor, composed of 2 subunits: Alpha, inducible subunit and Beta, a subunit expressed constitutionally. This transcription factor permits the expression of other genes involved in hypoxia adaptation leading to: a metabolic change from the aerobic pathway to the anaerobic pathway, which preserves the amount of tissue oxygen, at the angiogenesis, cell survival and, in some cases, tumor induction. Thus, HIF-1 sees its expression decrease during aging and a pseudo-hypoxic state is established within the cells. Sirtuine-1 (SIRT-1) is an enzyme with a deacetylase function which has been described as controlling the activity of the transcription factor HIF-1a. Because of its activity, SIRT-1 is involved in the regulation of many biological processes by modifying the acetylation level of histones and / or transcription factors. Thus, its involvement in antioxidant protection (via induction of SOD catalase) and in cell survival and longevity are widely described. As a result, overexpression of the transcription factor HIF-1 and / or Sirtuin-1 constitute means of preventing and / or treating the aging of the skin of the human body, and more particularly of preventing and / or to treat the visible effects of said aging, for example wrinkles, the dull complexion, the lack of uniformity of the complexion (dyschromia), the rigidity of the skin of the human body, caused by natural aging or by prolonged exposure to the sun, and more particularly, exposure to ultraviolet radiation, or exposure to oxidative stress. The class of brown algae, also called phéophycées, is part of the branch of the Ochrophytes. This branching gathers the algae whose cells contain "supernumerary" carotenoid pigments, such as fucoxanthin, in addition to chlorophyll pigments: chlorophylls a and c. The class of brown algae includes the orders of: Ascoseirales, Asterocladales, Desmarestiales, Dictyotales, Dictyotophycidae, Discosporangiales, Discosporangiophycidae, Ectocarpales, Fucales, Fucophycidae, Ishigeales, Ligigeophycidae, Laminariales, Nemodermatales, Onsiowiales, Phaeophyceae ordo incertae sedis, Phaeosiphoniellales, Ralfsiales, Scytothamnales, Sphacelariales, Sporochnales, Syringodermatales, Tilopteridales.
    [0003] 3032879 3 All photosynthetic organisms use pigments to capture the energy of light, usually a form of chlorophyll. Standard chlorophyll is chlorophyll a and is essential for the transfer of captured energy from light to molecules that will use this energy. Most chlorophyll organisms have other pigments to capture more light, but the energy must still be transferred to the chlorophyll a molecule. Brown algae use several types of supernumerary pigments such as chlorophyll and carotenoids. Pheophyceae have large amounts of carotenoids in their plasts and it is these brown and yellow pigments that give them this characteristic brown color. The most important carotenoid pigment in brown algae is fucoxanthin, which absorbs wavelengths from 450 to 580nm. The carotenoid pigments have an aliphatic or alicyclic structure. They are fat-soluble, which favors their direct integration into certain membranes. As a result, their solubility in water can only occur when they are bound to other molecules. Carotenoids are also called accessory pigments since they have to transfer the energy they capture to chlorophyll a. These pigments are known to the general public by the carotene that gave its name to this family of pigments. Fucoxanthin, which belongs to the non-provitamin A carotenoid class, is represented by the formula: The most widely described algae for their fucoxanthin content are Sargassum homeri, Hizikia fusiformis, Laminaria japonica and Undaria pinnatifida [Kim and Pangestuti, 25]. Biological activities and potential health benefits of fucoxanthin derived from marine brown algae ", Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, (2011) Chapter 9, 64 pp 111128]. In brown algae, fucoxanthin has an important biological function of protection against oxidative stress at the collecting antenna allowing photosynthesis [D.Siefermann-Harms, "The light-harvesting and protective functions of 30 carotenoids in photosynthetic membranes". "in: Physiologia Plantarum, (1987) Vol. 69 (3) pp. 3032879, 561-568]. The synthesis of this molecule in the algae is regulated finely according to the light conditions [R. Goss, T. Jakob, "Regulation and function of xanthophyll cycle-dependent photoprotection in algae" in: Photosynthesis Research. (2010), Vol. 106 (1-2) pp 103-122]. Fucoxanthin is in the same way as reduced glutathione, α-tocopherol, [3-carotene and flavonoids, a response to global oxidative stress [N. Mallick, F. Mohn, "Reactive oxygen species: response of algal cells" in J. Plant Physiology. (2000) Vol. 157 (2), pp 183-193]. Fucoxanthin has been widely described as having the following biological effects: anti-oxidant, anti-obesity, anti-cancer, anti-diabetic, anti-photo-aging, cardiovascular system protection, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotection, antiangiogenic , anti-tyrosinase (implying a depigmenting effect), or an effect of preventing osteoporosis [Kim and Pangestuti, "Biological activities and potential health benefits of fucoxanthin derived from marine brown algae", Advances in Food and Nutrition Research, (2011) Chapter 9, 64 pp 111128; Orazio et al., "Fucoxanthin: a treasure from the sea" in: Marine Drugs, (2012), 10 pp. 604-616.]. Because of these health and skin benefits, fucoxanthin, or extracts containing fucoxanthin, are widely used in various fields such as nutrition, cosmetics or pharmacy. The French patent application published under the number 2 837 383 discloses that the extracts of Undaria pinnatifida, had positive in-vitro effects vis-à-vis the aggressions caused to the skin (reactive oxygen species, heavy metals, carbon dioxide). carbon, tobacco smoke, chemical pollution, ...); said algae extracts being aqueous extracts obtained from thalli or any portion of thalli in fresh, frozen, dry, whole, fragmented or milled form. However, such aqueous extracts lead to an effect that is not sufficiently satisfactory for a successful application in cosmetics or pharmacy. French patent application published under number 2 880 803 discloses the use of brown algae for obtaining an anti-aging effect. However, the extract used in this patent application leads to an effect which is not sufficiently satisfactory for a potential application in cosmetics or pharmacy. In addition, this extract is difficult to incorporate in cosmetic formulations such as creams. This is why the inventors have endeavored to develop a new brown algae extract having an improved anti-aging effect and easily incorporated in cosmetic formulations in the form of creams.
    [0004] According to a first aspect, the subject of the invention is a lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes obtained by the process comprising the following successive stages: A step A) for the preparation of a hydro-alcoholic suspension of cells of gametophytes by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells of brown algae with at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms; A step B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A), with at least one fatty acid triglyceride which comprises from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes from the mixture obtained in step C). In the definition of the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes, object of the present invention, the aqueous suspension of gametes of brown algal gametophytes implemented in step A of the process for its production can be prepared as follows According to a step a), mature sporophyte slides are harvested ready to sporulate the brown algae used. Mature sporophytes are sporophytes with fertile areas. According to a step b), the mature sporophytes harvested during stage a) are placed in tanks containing seawater and release their spores in the medium.
    [0005] The spores thus released begin to germinate to give rise to gametophyte cells. According to a step c), the gametophytes formed during step b) are isolated and then deposited in a vessel containing seawater containing at least one source of nitrogen such that sodium nitrate (NaNO 3) has concentration between 50 and 250 mg / l with a preference for 150 mg / l and a source of phosphorus such as sodium dihydrogenphosphate (NaH2PO4) at a concentration of between 5 and 75 mg / l with a preference for 50 mg / l . according to a particular embodiment of this step c), the aqueous suspension thus formed is also added with other mineral elements by adding a nutrient medium such as the Provasoli medium of the following composition: Provasoli medium NaNO3 350 mg sodium glycerophosphate 50 mg Fe (NH4) 2 (SO4) 2, 6H20 18mg Nat EDTA 15mg H3B03 28.5mg FeCl3, 6H20 1,225mg 3032879 6 MnSO4, H2O 4.1mg ZnSO4, 7H20 0.55mg CoSO4, 7H20 0.12mg Vitamin B12 10g Thiamine 0.5mg Biotin 5pg Tris buffer 500mg distilled water 100m1 - According to a step d), the gametophytes are cultured in translucent culture tanks under a bubbling of air optionally added with carbon dioxide, at room temperature under constant illumination. After 14 days of culture, the cells have multiplied and the amount of biomass is high. It is then necessary to harvest the gametophyte cells present in culture by filtering the contents of the tank on a filtering screen at the cut-off point 80pm keeping the gametophytes on its surface. The gametophytes of brown algae obtained are then rinsed with seawater. According to a step e), the gametophytes collected and rinsed, are placed in aqueous suspension. This aqueous suspension is then used in step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae. During step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, the aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells is mixed with the alcohol or the mixture of alcohols at a temperature of 15 ° C. 20 ° C for at least one hour, at a rate of 5 to 30 liters of alcohol per kilogram of biomass and more particularly at a rate of about 10 liters of alcohol per kilogram of biomass. Said at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms used in step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above is more particularly chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols; it is particularly ethanol. During step B) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes as defined above, said hydroalcoholic suspension of brown algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A), is mixed with at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms. Said at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is more particularly a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids which comprise from eight to ten carbon atoms. According to this step B), the mixture is stirred for at least one hour.
    [0006] According to another particular aspect, said hydroalcoholic suspension of brown algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A) is mixed with said at least one fatty acid triglyceride which comprises from eight to twenty-two atoms. carbon weight on a mass of fatty acid triglycerides having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and lower or equal to 10% and, more particularly, greater than or equal to 5%. According to one particular aspect, this mass ratio is approximately equal to 6%. During step C) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of 10 gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, the multiphasic mixture obtained in step B) is added with water at a temperature of 20 ° C. with stirring. According to another particular aspect, said multiphasic mixture obtained in step B) is added with water so that the weight ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of brown algae on water mass is greater than or equal to 0 , 5% and less or equal to 2%. According to one particular aspect, this mass ratio is approximately equal to 1%. Step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes from the mixture obtained in step C) is generally carried out as follows: the mixture thus formed is filtered to remove the biomass. The filtrate is then separated by centrifugation to obtain the lipophilic extract of interest.
    [0007] By "brown alga" is meant in the lipophilic extract object of the present invention, the elements of the group consisting of brown algae orders Ascoseirales, Asterocladales, Desmarestiales, Dictyotales, Dictyotophycidae, Discosporangiales, Discosporangiophycidae, Ectocarpales, Fucales, Fucophycidae, Ishigeales, Ishigeophycidae, Laminariales, Nemodermatales, Onsiowiales, Phaeophyceae 25 ordo incertae sedis, Phaeosiphoniellales, Ralfsiales, Scytothamnales, Sphacelariales, Sporochnales, Syringodermatales, Tilopteridales, and more particularly the elements of the group consisting of the brown algae of the Laminariales, Fucales orders, Desmarestiales, Ectocarpales and Tilopteridales, and even more particularly the brown algae of the order Laminariales.
    [0008] In the lipophilic extract which is the subject of the present invention, the term "brown algae" refers more particularly to brown algae of the order Laminariales chosen from the brown algae of the family Alariaceae and the family Laminariaceae. In the lipophilic extract which is the subject of the present invention, the term "brown algae" refers more particularly to the brown algae of the order Laminariales of the family Laminariaceae, chosen from the group consisting of Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria hyperborea and Laminaria ochroleuca.
    [0009] In the lipophilic extract which is the subject of the present invention, the term "brown algae" refers more particularly to the brown algae of the order Laminariales of the family Alariaceae, which is the brown alga Undaria Pinnatifida. Optionally, after rinsing, the gametophytes obtained in step d) of preparing the aqueous suspension of gametes of brown algal gametophytes implemented in step A) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract brown algae gametophytes as defined above, are freeze-dried, generally in a freeze dryer plates, and then ground to obtain a freeze-dried powder of brown algae gametophytes. Therefore, according to another particular aspect, the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, further comprises: a step Ao) of preparation of said aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells of brown algae implemented in step A), by rehydration of a lyophilizate powder of gametophyte cells of brown algae.
    [0010] Step Ao as defined above is generally carried out immediately after grinding the lyophilized cells by mixing the powder with water so as to obtain a biomass containing in particular from 5% to 50% by mass of dry extract, plus particularly from 15% to 45% by weight of dry extract and more particularly about 35% of dry extract.
    [0011] The lipophilic extract of brown algae cells obtained at the end of stage D) of the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined previously may also contain water; it is then necessary to dry this solution by adding a drying salt, for example anhydrous sodium sulphate (NaSO4). The lipophilic extract of dry brown algal cells is then filtered on a paper filter of cellulosic material. This is why, according to another particular aspect, the process for obtaining said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes as defined above, further comprises: a step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae obtained in step D).
    [0012] According to another more particular aspect, the extract as defined above is characterized in that the brown algal gametophyte cells used in the process for obtaining are derived from brown algae of the order Laminariales chosen. among the brown algae of the family Alariaceae and the family Laminariaceae, more particularly from brown algae from the group consisting of Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharina, Laminaria hyperborea, Laminaria ochroleuca and Undaria Pinnatifida.
    [0013] According to another even more particular aspect, the extract as defined above is characterized in that the brown algal gametophyte cells used in the process for obtaining are derived from the alga Undaria pinnatifida. The subject of the invention is also the process for obtaining the lipophilic extract of gametes of brown algae, as defined above, comprising the following successive stages: a step A) of preparation of an aqueous-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametes of brown algal gametophytes with at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms; A step B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A), with at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of gametophytes from brown algae, of the mixture obtained in step C); According to more particular modes of the process as defined above, it also comprises one or the other or all of the following steps: a step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga, obtained in step D); A step Ao) for preparing said aqueous suspension of brown algal gametophyte cells carried out in step A), by rehydration of a lyophilizate of brown algal gametophyte cells. According to other particular modes of the process as defined above: in step A), said at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms is chosen from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols; and it is more particularly ethanol; and / or: in step B), said at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms, is a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids which comprise from eight to ten atoms of carbon ; and / or: in step B), the weight ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of brown algae to mass of triglycerides of fatty acids which comprise from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10%; and it is more particularly greater than or equal to 5%; and / or: The brown algae gametophyte cells used are derived from the brown algae of the order Laminariales chosen from the brown algae of the family Alariaceae and from the family Laminariaceae, more particularly derived from the brown algae from the group consisting of Laminaria digitata, Laminaria saccharine, Laminaria hyperborea, Laminaria ochroleuca and Undaria Pinnatifida, and more particularly from the seaweed Undaria Pinnatifida.
    [0014] The invention also relates to the use of the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, for the purpose of preventing or slowing down the appearance of the signs of aging of human skin or or eliminating said signs, said use being in a cosmetic composition, as well as a method for the purpose of preventing or slowing down the appearance of signs of aging of human skin or lips or of to eliminate said signs, comprising at least one step of application to human skin or to the lips, of a cosmetic composition (C1) for topical use comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient and an effective amount of the lipophilic gametophyte extract of brown algae as defined above.
    [0015] The invention also relates to the composition (C1) as defined above. In the method as defined above, said composition (C1) is generally spread on the surface of the skin to be treated, then the skin is massaged a few moments. The term "topical use" used in the definition of the composition (C1) object of the present invention, means that said composition (C1) is implemented by application to the skin, whether it is direct application or indirect application when said composition (C1) according to the invention is impregnated on a support intended to be brought into contact with the skin (paper, wipe, textile, transdermal device, etc ...). The expression "cosmetically acceptable" used in the definition of the composition (C1) which is the subject of the present invention, means according to the directive of the Council of the European Economic Community No. 76/768 / EEC of July 27, 1976 modified by the directive No 93/35 / EEC of 14 June 1993, that it includes any substance or preparation intended to be placed in contact with the various parts of the human body (epidermis, hair and hair system, nails, lips and genitals) or with the teeth and mucous membranes of the mouth, with a view, exclusively and principally, to clean them, to perfume them, to modify their appearance and / or to correct their body odors and / or to protect them or to maintain them in good condition. By effective amount of the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae as defined above, is meant for 100% of the mass of said composition (C1), the amount of between 0.1% and 5% by weight, more particularly between 0.1% and 3% by mass, and even more particularly between 0.5% and 2% by weight of said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae.
    [0016] The composition (C1) which is the subject of the present invention is generally in the form of an aqueous or hydro-alcoholic or hydro-glycolic solution, in the form of a suspension, an emulsion, a microemulsion or a a nanoemulsion, whether of the water-in-oil, oil-in-water, water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil type, or in the form of a powder. The composition (Cl) which is the subject of the present invention may be packaged in a bottle, in a device of the pump "bottle" type, in pressurized form in an aerosol device, in a device provided with a perforated wall such as a grid or in a device provided with a ball applicator (called "roll-on").
    [0017] In general, the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae object of the present invention, is associated with chemical additives usually used in the field of formulations for topical use, such as foaming surfactants and / or detergents, thickening and / or gelling agents, thickening and / or gelling agents, stabilizing agents, film-forming compounds, solvents and co-solvents, hydrotropic agents, thermal or mineral waters, plasticizing agents, emulsifiers and co-agents. emulsifiers, opacifying agents, pearlescent agents, superfatting agents, sequestering agents, chelating agents, oils, waxes, antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preserving agents, conditioning agents, deodorants, bleaching agents for hair and skin discoloration, the active ingredients intended to provide a brightening agent; treatment and / or protection against the skin or hair, sunscreens, mineral fillers or pigments, particles providing a visual effect or intended for the encapsulation of active ingredients, exfoliating particles, agents for texture, optical brighteners, repellents for insects.
    [0018] Examples of foaming and / or detergent surfactants which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (Cl) include foaming and / or anionic, cationic, amphoteric and / or detergent surfactants. nonionic. Foaming and / or detergent anionic surfactants include salts of alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, ammonium, amines, or aminoalcohols of alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl sulphates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates, alpha-olefin sulphonates, paraffin sulphonates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl sulphonates, alkylamide sulphonates, alkylaryl sulphonates, alkyl carboxylates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, alkyl sarcosinates, acyl isethionates, N-acyl taurates, acyl lactylates, N-acyl derivatives, amino acids, N-acyl derivatives of peptides, N-acyl derivatives of proteins, Nacyl derivatives of fatty acids. Amphoteric foaming and / or detergent surfactants include alkyl betaines, al kylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobetaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates. Among the foaming and / or detergent cationic surfactants, mention may be made especially of quaternary ammonium derivatives. Among the foaming and / or detergent nonionic surfactants, mention may be made more particularly of alkylpolyglycosides comprising a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic radical containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, such as octyl polyglucoside, decyl polyglucoside, undecylenyl polyglucoside, dodecyl polyglucoside, tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, 1-12 dodecanediyl polyglucoside; ethoxylated hydrogenated castor oil derivatives such as the product marketed under the INCI name "Peg-40 hydrogenated castor oil"; polysorbates such as Polysorbate 20, Polysorbate 40, Polysorbate 60, Polysorbate 70, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 85; coconut amides; N-al kylam ines. Examples of thickening and / or gelling surfactants which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include fatty esters of alkylpolyglycosides which are optionally alkoxylated, such as ethoxylated methylpolyglucoside such as PEG 120 methyl glucose trioleate and PEG 120 methyl glucose dioleate respectively marketed under the names GLUCAMATETM LT and GLUMATETM DOE120; alkoxylated fatty esters such as PEG 25 150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate sold under the name CROTHIX ™ DS53, PEG 55 propylene glycol oleate sold under the name ANTILTM 141; fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates such as PPG-14 laureth isophoryl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOSTM T211, PPG-14 palmeth-60 hexyl dicarbamate sold under the name ELFACOSTM GT2125.
    [0019] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which may be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include polyelectrolytes, linear or branched or crosslinked polymers, such as homopolymer of partially or totally salified acrylic acid, homopolymer of partially or totally salified methacrylic acid, homopolymer of 2-methyl-[(1-oxo-2-propenyl) amino acid) ] 1-propane sulfonic acid (AMPS) partially or completely salified, copolymers of acrylic acid and AMPS, copolymers of acrylamide and AMPS, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and AMPS, Copolymers of AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, copolymers of AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) methacrylate, copolymers of AMPS and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and N, N-dimethylacrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and tris (hydroxyethyl) acrylamido methane (THAM), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and methacrylate ( 2-hydroxyethyl), copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and hydroxyethylacrylamide, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and THAM, copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid and N, N-dimethyl Acrylamide, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and (2-hydroxyethyl) acrylate, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and methacrylate of hydroxyethyl), terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and THAM, terpolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and N, N-dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of Acrylic or methacrylic acid, AMPS and acrylamide, copol ymers of acrylic acid or of methacrylic acid and of alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between four and thirty carbon atoms and more particularly between ten and thirty carbon atoms, the linear, branched or crosslinked terpolymer of at least one monomer having a strong, free acid function, partially salified or totally salified, with at least one neutral monomer, and at least one monomer of formula (VIII): CI-12 = C (R'3) -C (= O) - [C1-12-C1-12- 0] n-R'4 (VIII) wherein R'3 represents a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical, R'4 represents a linear or branched alkyl radical having from eight to thirty carbon atoms and n represents a number greater than or equal to one and less than or equal to fifty. The linear or branched or crosslinked polyelectrolytic polymers which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) can be in the form of a solution, a aqueous suspension, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a powder. The polyelectrolytes, linear or branched or crosslinked polymers that can be associated with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae in the composition (C1), can be selected from the products sold under the names SIMULGELTM EG, SIMULGELTMEPG , SEPIGELTM 305, SIMULGELTM 600, SIMULGELTM NS, SIMULGELTM INS 100, SIMULGELTM FL, SIMULGELTM A, SIMULGELTM SMS 88 SEPINOVTMEMT 10 SEPIPLUSTM400, SEPIPLUSTM265, SEPIPLUSTMS, 3,032,879 SEPIMAXTMZen 14, NOVEMERTMEC 2 ARISTOFLEXTMAVC, ARISTOFLEXTMHMB, ARISTOFLEXTMAVS, COSMEDIATMSP, NOVEMERTMEC- 1, FLOCARETMET 25, FLOCARETMET 75, FLOCARETMET 26, FLOCARETMET 30, FLOCARETMET 58, FLOCARETMPSD 30, VISCOLAMTMAT 64, VISCOLAMTMAT 100.
    [0020] Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include polysaccharides consisting solely of monosaccharides, such as glucans or homopolymers of glucose, glucomannoglucans, xyloglycans, galactomannans whose degree of substitution (DS) of D-galactose units on the main chain of D-mannose is between 0 and 1, and more particularly between 1 and 0, 25, such as galactomannans from cassia gum (DS = 1/5), locust bean gum (DS = 1/4), tara gum (DS = 1/3), guar gum (DS = 1/2), fenugreek gum (DS = 1). Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include polysaccharides consisting of monosaccharides, such as galactans. sulphates and more particularly carrageenans and agar, uronans and more particularly algin, alginates and pectins, heteropolymers of monosaccharides and uronic acids and more particularly xanthan gum, gellan gum, exudates of gum of arabic and karaya gum, glucosaminoglycans. Examples of thickening and / or gelling agents that may be combined with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga in the composition (C1) include cellulose, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, silicates, starch, hydrophilic derivatives of starch, polyurethanes. Examples of stabilizing agents that may be associated with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae in the composition (C1) include microcrystalline waxes, and more particularly ozokerite, mineral salts such as sodium chloride or magnesium chloride, silicone polymers such as polysiloxane polyalkyl polyether copolymers. As examples of solvents which may be associated with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1), there may be mentioned water, organic solvents such as glycerol, diglycerol, oligomers of glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-propanediol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, xylitol, erythritol, sorbitol, water-soluble alcohols such as ethanol, isopropanol or butanol, water mixtures and said organic solvents.
    [0021] As examples of thermal or mineral waters which may be associated with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae in the composition (C1), mention may be made of thermal or mineral waters having a mineralization of at least 300. mg / I, in particular Avene water, Vittel water, Vichy basin water, Uriage water, Roche Posay water, Bourboule water, water water of Enghien-les-Bains, the water of Saint-Gervais-les Bains, the water of Néris-les-Bains, the water of Allevard-les-Bains, the water of Digne, the water of Maizieres water, Neyrac-les-bains water, Lons le Saunier water, Rochefort water, Saint Christau water, Fumades water and Tercis-les-bains water . Examples of hydrotropic agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include xylenesulfonates, cumenesulfonates, hexyl polyglucoside, (2) ethyl hexyl) polyglucoside or n-heptyl polyglucoside. Examples of emulsifying surfactants which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants and cationic surfactants. Examples of emulsifiable nonionic surfactants that may be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include esters of fatty acids and of sorbitol, such as the products marketed under the names MONTANETm40, MONTANETm60, MONTANETm70, MONTANETm80 and MONTANETm85; compositions comprising glycerol stearate and ethoxylated stearic acid between five moles and one hundred and fifty moles of ethylene oxide, such as the composition comprising stearic acid ethoxylated to one hundred and thirty-five moles of ethylene oxide and glycerol stearate marketed under the name SIMULSOL ™ 165; mannitan esters; ethoxylated mannitan esters; sucrose esters; methyl glucoside esters; alkyl polyglycosides having a linear or branched aliphatic radical, saturated or unsaturated, and having from fourteen to thirty six carbon atoms, such as tetradecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyglucoside, octadecyl polyglucoside, hexadecyl polyxyloside, octadecyl polyxyloside, eicosyl polyglucoside, dodecosyl polyglucoside, (2-octyl dodecyl) polyxyloside, (12-hydroxy stearyl) polyglucoside; linear or branched fatty alcohol compositions, saturated or unsaturated, and containing from fourteen to thirty-six carbon atoms, and alkyl polyglycosides as described above, for example the compositions sold under the brand names MONTANOVTM68, MONTANOVTm 14 , MONTANOVTm82, MONTANOVTm202, MONTANOVTMS, MONTANOVTmVV018, MONTANOVTm L, 35 FLUIDANOVTm2OX and EASYNOVTM. Examples of anionic surfactants that may be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include glyceryl stearate citrate, cetearyl sulphate, soaps such as sodium stearate or triethanolammonium stearate, N-acyl derivatives of salified amino acids such as stearoyl glutamate. Examples of cationic emulsifying surfactants which may be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include aminoxides, quaternium-82 and the surfactants described in the patent application. WO 96/00719 and mainly those whose fatty chain comprises at least sixteen carbon atoms. Examples of opacifying and / or nacrating agents which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga in the composition (C1) include sodium palmitate, sodium stearate, sodium hydroxystearate, magnesium palmitate, magnesium stearate, magnesium hydroxystearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, polyethylene glycol monostearate, polyethylene glycol distearate, and fatty alcohols comprising from twelve to twenty-two carbon atoms. Examples of texturizing agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include N-acylated derivatives of amino acids, such as lauroyl lysine marketed under the name AMI NOHOPE Tm LL, octenyl starch succinate marketed under the name DRYFLOTM 20, myristyl polyglucoside marketed under the name MONTANOVTM 14, cellulose fibers, cotton fibers, chitosan fibers, talc, sericite, mica. Examples of deodorant agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include alkali silicates, zinc salts such as zinc sulphate, gluconate and the like. zinc, zinc chloride, zinc lactate; quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts; glycerol derivatives such as glycerol caprate, glycerol caprylate, polyglycerol caprate; 1,2-decanediol; 1,3-propanediol; salicylic acid; sodium bicarbonate; cyclodextrins; metallic zeolites; TRICLOSAN Tm; aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrates, aluminum chloride, aluminum sulphate, aluminum and zirconium hydrochlorides, aluminum and zirconium trihydrochloride, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate , aluminum and zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum and zirconium octochlorohydrate, aluminum sulphate, sodium and aluminum lactate, aluminum and glycol hydrochloride complexes, as the complex of aluminum hydrochloride and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum dihydrochloride and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and propylene glycol, the complex of aluminum chlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum dihydrochloride and polyethylene glycol, the complex of aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and polyethylene glycol.
    [0022] Examples of oils which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (Cl) include mineral oils such as paraffin oil, liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins or mineral white oils; oils of animal origin, such as squalene or squalane, vegetable oils, such as phytosqualane, sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil , olive oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, lemon oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, l safflower oil, bancoulin oil, passion flower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils derived from flowers or vegetables, vegetable oils ethoxylated; synthetic oils such as fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, hydrogenated oils, poly (alpha-olefin), polyolefins such as poly ( isobutane), synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils; silicone oils such as dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, amine-modified silicones, fatty acid-modified silicones, alcohols-modified silicones, alcohol-modified silicones and fatty acids, modified silicones, polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified with fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified with alkyl groups. By "oils" is meant herein the compounds and / or the mixtures of water-insoluble compounds having a liquid appearance at a temperature of 25 ° C. Examples of waxes which may be combined with the lipophilic extract of gametes of brown algae in the composition (Cl) include beeswax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, wax and the like. uricury, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax; ozokerite; polyethylene wax; silicone waxes; vegetable waxes; fatty alcohols and solid fatty acids at room temperature; glycerides solid at room temperature. By "waxes" is meant in the present application compounds and / or mixtures of water-insoluble compounds having a solid appearance at a temperature of 45 ° C or higher. Examples of active principles that can be associated with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae in the composition (C1) include vitamins and their derivatives, especially their esters, such as retinol (vitamin A) and its esters (retinyl palmitate, for example), ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its esters, sugar derivatives of ascorbic acid (such as ascorbyl glucoside), tocopherol (vitamin E) and its esters (such as tocopherol acetate), vitamins B3 or B10 (niacinamide and its derivatives); the compounds showing a lightening or depigmenting action on the skin, such as the w-undecylenoyl phenylalanine sold under the name SEPIWHITETMMSH, the SEPICALM TmVG, the mono ester and / or the glycerol diester of the undecylenoyl phenylalanine, the w-undecylenoyl dipeptides arbutin, kojic acid, hydroquinone; the compounds showing a soothing action including SEPICALM TM S, allantoin and bisabolol; anti-inflammatory agents; compounds showing a moisturizing action such as urea, hydroxyureas, glycerol, polyglycerols, glycerolglucoside, diglycerolglucoside, polyglycerylglucosides, xylitylglucoside, the composition marketed under the brand name AQUAXYLTM, the composition sold under the name of brand PRO-XYLAN In ", derivatives of C-glycosides and more particularly derivatives of C-glucosides, C-xylosides, plant extracts rich in polyphenols such as grape extracts, pine extracts, wine extracts, olive extracts, compounds showing a slimming or lipolytic action such as caffeine or its derivatives, ADIPOSLIM Tm, ADIPOLESSTM, fucoxanthin, N-acylated proteins, N-acylated peptides such as MATRIXILTM; N-acyl amino acids, partial hydrolyzers of N-acylated proteins, amino acids, peptides, total protein hydrolysts, soy extracts, For example, Raffermine ™ wheat extracts, for example TENSINETM or GLIADINETM; plant extracts, such as tannin-rich plant extracts, plant extracts rich in isoflavones or plant extracts rich in terpenes; freshwater or marine algae extracts; marine plant extracts; marine extracts in general such as corals; essential waxes; bacterial extracts; ceramides; phospholipids; compounds showing antimicrobial action or purifying action, such as LIPACIDETM C8G, LIPACIDETM UG, SEPICONTROL ™ A5, FLUIDIPURETM8G; OCTOPIROXTm or SENSIVATM SC50; compounds showing an energizing or stimulating property such as PHYSIOGENYL ™, panthenol and its derivatives such as SEPICAP ™ MP; anti-aging actives such as SEPILIFTTM DPHP, LIPACIDETM PVB, SEPIVINOLTM, SEPIVITALTM, MANOLIVATM, PHYTOAGETM, TIMECODETM; SURVICODETM; anti-aging photo active ingredients; the active ingredients protecting the integrity of the dermal-epidermal junction; actives enhancing the synthesis of extracellular matrix components such as collagen, elastins, glycosaminoglycans; assets acting favorably on chemical cellular communication such as cytokines or physical ones such as integrins; actives creating a sensation of "heating" on the skin such as cutaneous microcirculation activators (such as nicotinic acid derivatives) or products that create a sensation of "freshness" on the skin (such as menthol and derivatives ); the active agents improving cutaneous microcirculation, for example the venotonic ones; draining assets; decongestant active ingredients such as extracts of ginko biloba, ivy, horse chestnut, bamboo, ruscus, holly, centalla asiatica, fucus, rosemary, willow; tanning agents or skin browning agents, for example dihydroxyacetone (DHA), erythrulose, mesotartaric aldehyde, glutaraldehyde, glyceraldehyde, alloxane, ninhydrin, plant extracts, for example red woods of the genus Pterocarpus and of the genus Baphia such as Pteropcarpus santalinus, Pterocarpus osun, Pterocarpus soyauxii, Pterocarpus erinaceus, Pterocarpus indicus or Baphia nitida such as those described in European Patent Application EP 0 971 683; agents known for their action of facilitating and / or accelerating the tanning and / or browning of human skin, and / or for their action of coloring human skin, for example caratenoids (and more particularly beta carotene) and gamma carotene), the product sold under the tradename "Carrot oil" (INCI name: Daucus Carota, helianthus annuus Sunflower oil) by Provital, which contains carotenoids, vitamin E and vitamin K ; tyrosine and / or its derivatives, known for their effect on the tanning acceleration of human skin in association with exposure to ultraviolet radiation, for example the product marketed under the trademark "SunTan AcceleratorTM" by the company Provital which contains tyrosine and riboflavins (vitamin B), tyrosine and tyrosinase complex marketed under the trademark "Zymo Tan Complex" by Zymo Line, the product marketed under the brand name MelanoBronze ™ (name). INCI: Acetyl Tyrosine, Monk's pepper extract (Vitex Agnus castus)) by the company Mibelle which contains acetyl tyrosine, product sold under the brand name Unipertan VEG-24/242/2002 (INCI name: butylene glycol and Acetyl Tyrosine and Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein and Adenosine Triphosphate) by the company UNIPEX, the product marketed under the brand name "Try-ExcellTm" (INCI name: Oleoyl Tyrosine and Luffa Cylindri ca (Seed) Oil and Oleic acid) by the company Sederma 3032879, which contains extracts of pumpkin seed (or Loofah oil), the product marketed under the trademark "ActibronzeTM" (INCI name: hydrolyzed wheat protein and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) by the company Alban Muller, the product sold under the brand name TyrostanTM (INCI name: potassium caproyl 5 tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product sold under the brand name Tyrosinol (INCI name: Sorbitan Isostearate, glyceryl oleate, caproyl Tyrosine) by the company Synerga, the product sold under the brand name InstaBronzeTM (INCI name: Dihydroxyacetone and acetyl tyrosine and copper gluconate) marketed by the company Alban Muller, the product sold under the trade name Tyrosilane (name INCI: methylsilanol and acetyl tyrosine) by Exymol; peptides known for their effect of activating melanogenesis, for example the product marketed under the brand name Bronzing SF Peptide powder (INCI name: Dextran and Octapeptide-5) by the company Infinitec Activos, the product sold under the brand name Melitane (INCI name: Glycerin and Aqua and Dextran and Acetyl hexapeptide-1) comprising acetyl hexapeptide-1 known for its alpha-MSH agonist action, the product marketed under the brand name Melatimes Solutions TM (INCI name : Butylene glycol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-40) by LIPOTEC, sugars and sugar derivatives, for example the product sold under the trade name TanositolTM (INCI name: inositol) by the company Provital, the product marketed under the name of trademark ThalitanTM (or PhycosaccharideTM AG) by the company CODIF International (INCI name: Aqua and hydrolyzed algin (Laminaria Digitata) and magnesium sulfate and manganese sulfate) containing an olig marine origin osaccharide (guluronic acid and mannuronic acid chelated with magnesium and manganese ions), the product marketed under the trade name MelactivaTM (INCI name: Maltodextrin, Mucuna 25 Pruriens Seed extract) by Alban Muller, the rich compounds in flavonoids for example the product sold under the brand name "Biotanning" (INCI name: Hydrolyzed citrus Aurantium dulcis fruit extract) by the company Silab and known to be rich in flavonoids of lemon (hesperidin type); agents for treating hair and / or hair, for example hair follicle melanocyte protecting agents, for protecting said melanocytes against cytotoxic agents responsible for senescence and / or apoptosis of said melanocytes, such as the mimetics of the DOPAchrome tautomerase activity chosen from those described in the European patent application published under the number EP 1 515 688 A2, the synthetic mimetic molecules of SOD, for example the manganese complexes, antioxidant compounds by cyclodextrin derivatives, ascorbic acid-derived silica compounds, lysine or arginine pyrrolidone carboxylate, combinations of mono- and diester of cinnamic acid and vitamin C, and more generally those mentioned in US Pat. European patent application published under the number EP 1 515 688 A2. Examples of antioxidant agents that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga in the composition (C1) include EDTA and its salts, citric acid, tartaric acid , oxalic acid, BHA (butylhydroxyanisol), BHT (butylhydroxytoluene), tocopherol derivatives such as tocopherol acetate, mixtures of antioxidant compounds such as DISSOLVINETM GL 47S marketed by Akzo Nobel under the name I NCI: Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate. Examples of sunscreens that can be combined with the lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes in the composition (C1) include all those included in the cosmetic directive 76/768 / EEC modified Annex VII. Among the solar organic filters which may be associated with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae in the composition (C1), mention may be made of the family of benzoic acid derivatives such as para-aminobenzoic acids (PABA) , in particular the monoglycerol esters of PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-propoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-diethoxy PABA, the ethyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA, the methyl esters of N, N dimethyl PABA, butyl esters of N, N-dimethyl PABA; the family of anthranilic acid derivatives such as homomenthyl-N-acetyl anthranilate; the family of salicylic acid derivatives such as amyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate, ethylhexyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, benzyl salicylate, p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate; the family of cinnamic acid derivatives such as ethylhexyl cinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropyl cinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropyl cinnamate, p-methoxypropyl cinnamate, p-methoxyisopropyl cinnamate p-methoxyisoamyl cinnamate, p-methoxyoctyl cinnamate, (p-methoxy-2-ethylhexyl) cinnamate, (p-methoxy-2-ethoxyethyl) cinnamate, (p-methoxycyclohexyl) cinnamate ethyl-α-cyano-pphenyl cinnamate, (2-ethyl hexyl) -α-cyano-p-phenyl cinnamate, glyceryl diparamethoxy mono-2-ethylhexanoyl cinnamate; the family of benzophenone derivatives such as 2,4-dihydroxy benzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy benzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, (2-ethylhexyl) -4'-phenylbenzophenone-2-carboxylate 2-hydroxy-4- (n-octyloxy) benzophenone, 4-hydroxy-3-carboxy benzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) d, 1-camphor, 3- (benzylidene) d, 1-camphor, benzalkonium methosulfate camphor; urocanic acid, ethyl urocanate; the family of sulfonic acid derivatives such as sulfonic acid 2-phenyl benzimidazole-5 and its salts; the family of triazine derivatives such as hydroxyphenyl triazine, (ethylhexyloxy) (hydroxyphenyl) (4-methoxyphenyl) triazine, 2,4,6-trianillino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl) -oxy) -1,3,5-triazine, 4,4 - ((6 - (((1,1-dimethylethyl) amino) carbonyl) phenyl) amino) -1,3,5-triazine-2 Benzoic acid, 4-diyl diimino) bis (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy 5'-t-octyl phenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole; dibenzazine; dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4-tert-butylbenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentan-2-one, the family of diphenylacrylate derivatives such as (2-ethyl) hexyl) 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, ethyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl-2-propenoate, the family of polysiloxanes such as benzylidene malonate siloxane, among the inorganic solar filters, also called "Mineral screens", which can be combined with the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae in the composition (C1), mention may be made of titanium oxides, zinc oxides, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, yellow, red or black iron oxides, chromium oxides These inorganic screens may or may not be micronized, may or may not have undergone surface treatments and may optionally be presented in the form of aqueous or oily pre-dispersions. The subject of the invention is also the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae, as defined above. ously, for use in a method of therapeutic treatment of the signs of aging of human skin or lips, 20 applied to the human body. The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it. Lists of extracts tested Extract A (according to the invention): Gametophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida Extract B (according to the state of the art): Extract BB of Example 3 of French patent application FR 2 880 803 Al Extract C (according to the state of the art: sporophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida, obtained by extraction in a mixture of water and glycerol Biological efficacy of the extracts tested 30 In-vitro study The model chosen to highlight the technical effect of the extract according to the invention is a model for the study of the expression of genes on human skin explants The so-called genomic or transcriptomic tests are very widely used in various fields such as cosmetics in order to In view of the biological benefits, the work on explants of human skin makes it possible to be in more physiological conditions than the work on monolayer cell cultures.
    [0023] 3032879 23 Explants of human skin about 10 mm in diameter, from 2 caucasian donors and female (49 years and 46 years), from abdominal operating waste) were collected. They were then put into survival in a specific BEM (Bio-Ec's Explants Medium) medium at 37 ° C. in a humid atmosphere at 5% of 002. The 5 products indicated in Table 1 were then applied for a duration of 24 hours. Extract Physical appearance Concentration Concentration applied in topically applied culture medium A Dark green liquid 1% 0.1% B Liquid Light green 1% 0.1% C Colorless liquid 1% 0.1% Vehicle Colorless liquid 2.5% in aqueous gel 1% Table 1: Product application methods. The products were prepared in a hydroalcoholic gel at 2.5% ethanol for topical applications, and with 1% ethanol in the culture medium to solubilize. 3 explants per condition were thus prepared. After 24 hours the total RNAs were extracted and then a quantitative and qualitative analysis was conducted to determine their concentration and level of purity and integrity before making them undergo an amplification step.
    [0024] 5ng of RNA were then used and then retro-transcribed to obtain complementary DNA. This was then amplified by the quantitative PCR (Polymerase Chain Reaction) (qPCR) technique using probes specific to 3 genes: GAPDH (housekeeping gene, control), HIF-1a and SIRT-1, and a fluorescent marker, the SYBR Green allowing the follow-up of the amplification reaction in real time. PCR runs per cycle and the number of cycles (Cq) performed for each target, so that it can be detected, is reported. This cycle value is then subtracted from that of the GAPDH in order to normalize the effects obtained, and then a calculation of the expression ratio with respect to the vehicle condition is performed (RQ). For each extract tested, and for each gene of interest, the following quantities are calculated: ACq (extract i) = Cq (gene of interest) - Cq (reference gene), with: - Cq (gene of interest) representing the average number of cycles performed and necessary to obtain a signal for a given extract and a given gene of interest; Cq (reference gene) representing the average number of cycles performed and necessary to obtain a signal for a given extract and a reference gene (here, GAPDH). For each gene of interest and for each extract tested, AACq = ACq (extract i) - ACq of the vehicle is calculated. For each extract tested, and for each gene of interest, the RQ value is calculated according to: RQ = 2-8 "8ccl The results of variation are presented in Table 2 below: GAPDH HIF-la SIRT-1 Extract Number of Average RQ Average RQ Number Average RQ Number average cycles of average average cycles A 20.21 1 24.99 1.41 28.27 1.56 B 19.85 1 24.88 0.6 28.28 0.73 C 19.99 1 24.94 0.67 28.10 0.82 Vehicle 20.02 25.38 27.91 (a) 21.12 25.41 28.83 (b) 10 Table 2: Results EXAMPLES OF GENE EXPRESSION OBTAINED (A): EXPERIMENT USED WITH COMPOUND A (B): EXPERIMENT USED WITH THE OTHER COMPOUNDS Extract A (gametophyte extract from Undaria pinnatifida) makes it possible to induce overexpression of the HIF genes The other compounds do not make it possible to induce the expression of these genes, the present results make it possible to demonstrate the additional technical effect of the invention with respect to the vehicle condition. state of the closest technique represented by the aqueous sporophyte extract of Undaria pinnatifida (extract C), and by the extract BB of the patent application FR 2 880 803 A1 (extract B). In-vivo study A clinical study, carried out on a representative panel of subjects (25 women), made it possible to demonstrate an effect of reducing the roughness of the skin micro-relief and the average depth of the wrinkles at the level of the the "crow's foot", associated with the application on the area in question of the skin of a cosmetic formulation comprising an effective amount of extract A according to the invention compared to the application, on the same area of the skin, a "placebo" cosmetic formulation not comprising said extract A and this for two months. Another clinical study, carried out on a representative panel of subjects (mixed panel comprising 20 people), has demonstrated an effect of improving the antioxidant capacity of the skin associated with the application to the skin of a skin. cosmetic formulation comprising an effective amount of extract A according to the invention compared to the application on the skin of a "placebo" cosmetic formulation not comprising said extract A, after 14 and 28 days of applications. This effect has been demonstrated by the implementation of the iron reducing antioxidant power test (so-called "FRAP" method). Another clinical evaluation was carried out on this same representative panel of subjects and demonstrated an effect of improving the resistance of the skin against a stress induced by exposure to ultraviolet radiation A, associated with 15 application on the skin of a cosmetic formulation comprising an effective amount of extract A according to the invention compared to the application on the skin of a "placebo" cosmetic formulation not comprising said extract A, after 14 and 28 days of applications. This effect has been demonstrated by the implementation of the Malondialdehyde (or "MDA") assay, the main product of lipid peroxidation, by the method of Erdelmeier et al., 1998, based on the ability of a chromogen, NMPI (N-methyl-2-phenylindole) to react with MDA at 45 ° C and acidic pH to produce a stable chromophore with an absorption peak at 586nm.
    权利要求:
    Claims (21)
    [0001]
    REVENDICATIONS1. Lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes obtained by the process comprising the following successive steps: a step A) of preparation of a hydro-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells of algae brown, with at least one aliphatic alcohol having one to four carbon atoms; A step B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A), with at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga, from the mixture obtained in stage C). 15
    [0002]
    2. Extract as defined in claim 1, wherein step A) of the production process is characterized in that said at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms is selected from ethanol, propanol , isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols. 20
    [0003]
    3. The extract as defined in claim 2, wherein step A) of the production process, is characterized in that said at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms is ethanol. 25
    [0004]
    4. Extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein step B) of the production process is characterized in that said at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two atoms of carbon, is a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids that have from eight to ten carbon atoms. 30
    [0005]
    5. Extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 4, the step of step B) of the obtaining process is characterized in that the mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells brown algae on The mass of triglycerides of fatty acids having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10%. 35
    [0006]
    6. Extract as defined in claim 5, wherein step B) of the production process is characterized in that said mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of brown algae on mass of triglycerides of fatty acids which comprise from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 5%.
    [0007]
    7. Extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 6, the method of obtaining 5 further comprises: - a step A0) of preparation of said aqueous suspension of brown algal gametophyte cells implemented in step A), by rehydration of a lyophilizate powder of brown algal gametophyte cells. 10
    [0008]
    8. Extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 7, the method of obtaining further comprises: - a step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of brown algae gametophytes, obtained in step D ).
    [0009]
    9. Extract as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8, for which the brown algal gametophyte cells used in the process for obtaining are derived from the alga Undaria pinnatifida.
    [0010]
    10. Process for obtaining a lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae, comprising the following successive stages: A step A) for the preparation of an aqueous-alcoholic suspension of gametophyte cells by mixing an aqueous suspension of gametophyte cells of brown algae, with at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms; A step B) of mixing said hydroalcoholic suspension of algal gametophyte cells obtained in step A), with at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms; A step C) of adding water to the multiphase mixture obtained in step B); A step D) of isolating said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga, from the mixture obtained in stage C).
    [0011]
    11. The process as defined in claim 10, wherein, in step A), said at least one aliphatic alcohol comprising from one to four carbon atoms is selected from ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol or a mixture of these alcohols. 3032879 28
    [0012]
    12. The process as defined in claim 11, wherein, in step A), said at least one aliphatic alcohol having from one to four carbon atoms is ethanol.
    [0013]
    13. A process as defined in any one of claims 10 to 12, wherein, in step B), said at least one fatty acid triglyceride having from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms, is a a mixture of triglycerides of fatty acids having from eight to ten carbon atoms.
    [0014]
    14. A method as defined in any one of claims 10 to 13, according to which, in step B), the mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of brown algae on mass of triglycerides of fatty acids which have from eight to twenty-two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 2% and less than or equal to 10%.
    [0015]
    15. The method as defined in claim 14, wherein, in step B), said mass ratio: mass of gametophyte cells of brown algae on mass of triglycerides of fatty acids which comprise from eight to twenty- two carbon atoms is greater than or equal to 5%.
    [0016]
    16. A method as defined in any one of claims 10 to 15, further comprising a step A0) for preparing said aqueous suspension of brown algal gametophyte cells implemented in step A), by rehydration lyophilizate of brown algal gametophyte cells.
    [0017]
    17. The method as defined in claim 10, further comprising: a step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of brown algal gametophytes, obtained in step D). 30
    [0018]
    18. The method as defined in claim 16, further comprising: a step E) of drying said lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown alga, obtained in step D).
    [0019]
    19. A method as defined in any one of claims 10 to 18, wherein the brown algal gametophyte cells used are derived from the alga Undaria pinnatifida. 5 10 15 20 25 3032879 29
    [0020]
    20. Cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount, the lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, and at least one cosmetically acceptable excipient. 5
    [0021]
    21. A lipophilic extract of gametophytes of brown algae, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, for use in a method of therapeutic treatment of the signs of aging of human skin or lips, applied to the human body . 10
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    公开号 | 公开日
    FR3032879B1|2018-04-06|
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    CN107427452B|2021-04-09|
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    PT3261727T|2019-09-05|
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    JP2018505913A|2018-03-01|
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    AU2016225314A1|2017-10-05|
    JP6731425B2|2020-07-29|
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    法律状态:
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    2016-08-26| PLSC| Publication of the preliminary search report|Effective date: 20160826 |
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    2022-02-16| PLFP| Fee payment|Year of fee payment: 8 |
    优先权:
    申请号 | 申请日 | 专利标题
    FR1551545|2015-02-24|
    FR1551545A|FR3032879B1|2015-02-24|2015-02-24|OBTAINING EXTRACT OF GAMETOPHYTES FROM BROWN ALGAE AND USE THEREOF AS ACTIVE ANTI-AGING COSMETIC PRINCIPLE|FR1551545A| FR3032879B1|2015-02-24|2015-02-24|OBTAINING EXTRACT OF GAMETOPHYTES FROM BROWN ALGAE AND USE THEREOF AS ACTIVE ANTI-AGING COSMETIC PRINCIPLE|
    KR1020177025163A| KR20180003531A|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract from a brown alga gamete, and using the above extract as a cosmetic anti-aging active ingredient|
    JP2017562135A| JP6731425B2|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining extracts from brown alga gametophytes and their use as cosmetic anti-aging active ingredients|
    PT16713518T| PT3261727T|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract from brown algae gametophytes, and use of said extract as a cosmetic anti-aging active principle|
    ES16713518T| ES2742535T3|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract of gametophytes that originate from brown algae and its use as an anti-aging cosmetic active ingredient|
    AU2016225314A| AU2016225314B2|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract from brown algae gametophytes, and use of said extract as a cosmetic anti-aging active principle|
    PCT/FR2016/050389| WO2016135400A1|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract from brown algae gametophytes, and use of said extract as a cosmetic anti-aging active principle|
    EP16713518.5A| EP3261727B1|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract from brown algae gametophytes, and use of said extract as a cosmetic anti-aging active principle|
    US15/553,018| US10206869B2|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Obtaining an extract from brown algae gametophytes, and use of said extract as a cosmetic anti-aging active principle|
    CN201680011775.6A| CN107427452B|2015-02-24|2016-02-19|Extract obtained from brown algae gametophyte and application of extract as anti-aging active ingredient of cosmetic|
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